American’s have a thing about royalty, an antipathy that has become part of the collective national mythos. Throwing off the shackles of the tyrant and upholding the principles of democracy is an idea that is held right in the center of who Americans like to believe they are as a people. The story of Iolani Palace in Hawaii, the one and only royal palace in the United States, holds a mirror up to that impulse and begs certain uncomfortable questions, including the most important and disturbing one: cui bono?

Construction on the new residence of Hawaii’s Merry Monarch King David Kalakaua began in December of 1879. Its name, which translates roughly into Home of the Devine Hawk, originally belonged to another palace, that of King Kamehameha V, which was demolished in 1874. The new royal palace had every amenity that the modern world of the late 19th century could offer: indoor plumbing, electric lighting, telephones. Iolani Palace quickly became a kind of island Chateau de Versailles, in effect the political and social center of the sovereign nation of Hawaii.

King Kalakaua was certainly a monarch worth of such a home. Kalakaua was the 1st king to visit the United States, and the 1st monarch to circumvent the globe. He was known as a great patron of the arts, and a famously good host. He was also a cagey politician; though the King was deeply committed to the preservation of indigenous Hawaiian culture, and promoted the transcription of Hawaiian oral history and the performance of the Hula, Ioloni was richly decorated in the European style, the better to impress visiting dignitaries. When he died in San Francisco in 1891, the Hawaiians lost their last great ruler.

King David’s sister became Queen Lili’uokalani on January 29, 1891. Though her time spent ruling Hawaii as the Princess Regent while the King journeyed around the world had made her a competent sovereign, forces were aligning against her and the Hawaiian monarchy that would change the islands forever.

Hawaii was and is a place of great agricultural value. Even then Hawaiian citizens of American descent, naturalized citizens and foreign nationals with a business interest in the islands comprised a powerful sector of the population. When Queen Lili’uokalani attempted to institute a new constitution limited the suffrage of Hawaiian subjects and strengthen the power of the monarchy, the opposition, with the aid of the American Minister to Hawaii’s, organized a coup, overthrew the monarchy and established a provisional government.

While in many places in the world today democracy is considered the best and most morally responsible form of government, one must wonder about the motives behind this “revolution”. Was it really in the best interests of native Hawaiians? Many certainly didn’t think so, and in 1895 royalists loyal to the Queen attempted to restore her to power. The plan failed, and the Queen was arrested, tried, convicted, forced to abdicate all future claim to the throne and finally sentenced to imprisonment in the very place from which she once ruled her Kingdom, Iolani Palace.

While the Queen spend part her many years of imprisonment in an upstairs bedroom of Iolani Palace, denied any visitors apart from one of her ladies in waiting, below her the palace was virtually looted by her captors, who auctioned off its accumulated treasures. The palace eventually became the seat of government for the Provisional Government, which in time evolved into the State of Hawaii in 1959.

In 1978, nearly 100 years after the corner stone of Iolani Palace had been laid, restoration on the building began. After years of neglect and abuse, the Friends of Iolani Palace, founded by Lili’uokalani Morris, herself descended from Hawaiian royalty, dedicated themselves to returning the palace to its former glory. Today Ioloni Palace is a popular tourist attraction and point of pride for indigenous Hawaiian.

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Hula, danced beachside while tiki torches are lit by an athletic Hawaiian boy and a tenor sings Lovely Hula Hands at sunset. Galleries filled with carved tiki figures and predictable watercolor paintings of reef fish or plumeria blossoms. Think this is all you can expect from the arts in Hawaii? If so, you have a real treat in store. What Honolulu and the other islands have to offer is a thriving, exciting, and diverse arts community. There is something for everyone and many things that are totally unexpected.

The inaugural “Hawaii Arts Season” has been set for February 27 to May 2, 2004. But, in reality the “arts season” in the islands is year round. The 2004 “Season,” supported by the Hawaii Tourism Authority and promoted by the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau, is a tenweek period packed with a diverse selection of art and cultural events. The goal is to etch Hawaii Opera Theatre, the Honolulu Symphony, world-class art museums, multi-ethnic cultural festivals, Broadway-quality productions, internationally acclaimed film festivals, and the many hidden gems firmly into the minds of lovers of the arts. Sun, sand, surf in Hawaii are the best. Add the arts and you have a truly cosmopolitan destination.

Performing Arts

As Diamond Head Theatre heads into its 90th year of continuous operation (Swing!), Army Community Theater (Kiss Me Kate) has another great season, and Manoa Valley Theater (Copacabana) also continues sold out shows, it is a sure bet that you can catch great musicals, comedies and drama on one Honolulu stage or another, any weekend. The lure of warmth and sunshine brings many Broadway performers and directors to do shows in the islands. Other theater companies, like Honolulu Theater For Youth, The Actors Group at the Yellow Brick Studio and TShirt Theatre, produce high quality, innovative, original and traditional shows. In addition to the regular theater locations, productions are frequently offered in art galleries and museums, college stages, churches, schools and even outdoor street venues. A do not-miss is The Arts at Marks Garage, right in the heart of Honolulu China Town, where performance art and fine art are a regular combination. The 40-page TGIF section of the Friday newspaper has complete listings for all shows, including numerous free public performances. Each neighbor island has one or more theater companies.

The “official” Arts Season opens, February 27, with the Hawaii Opera Theatre’s “Merry Widow.” In March the Honolulu Symphonys Masters Series hosts master flutist Sir James Galway. In April, at the Polynesian Cultural Center Amphitheater, audiences will be enthralled by the Whakataetae Maori Song and Dance Competition. On May First, “Lei Day” in the islands, the Waikiki Shell blossoms with the annual lei making competition and the 25th-plus year performance of the Brothers Cazimero classic Hawaiian music concert.

Every Sunday, at 2 p.m. Na Mea Hawaii at Ward Warehouse offers a showcase of traditional and contemporary Hawaiian entertainers in a free concert. Another great spot for entertaiment are the Sunday concerts at the Kapiolani Park Bandstand at the base of Diamond Head in Waikiki. The hundred-plus year old Royal Hawaiian Band plays and hula groups dance, often ollowed by a variety of multiethnic cultural performances.

With exceptional performance venues like the Waikiki Shell, the Neal Blaisdell Concert Hall, the historic Hawaii Theatre in Honolulu, and the Maui Arts and Cultural Center available, the entire state hosts productions by some of the worlds best performing arts companies and performers. Grammy Award-winning classical guitarist Sharon Isbin, the African world music legend Baaba Maal, the Colorado String Quartet, Les Ballet Jazz de Montreal, and the CHI Chinese Circus are on the calendar for spring of 2004.

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The traditional feast in Hawaii was once referred to as the ‘aha ‘aina and was used to celebrate many events including coming of age and visitors. The modern term Luau may have originated from the great coed feasts of the Hawaiian King Kamehameha II. In traditional Hawaii men and women were not allowed to eat together and all women were forbidden to eat certain kinds of foods in Hawaii.

King Kamehameha II abolished these laws and many other religious laws in the year 1819. He validated this change in tradition by having a symbolic feast with women invited. At this feast one of the main dishes involved the wrapping of chicken in the young leaves of the Taro plant and baking it in coconut milk. This dish was called ‘Luau’ and as a result of its being one of the main courses of these feasts the feasts themselves came to be called ‘Luaus.’

Traditional Luaus are eaten on the ground, with food place on Ti Leaves that cover a type of woven mat called the ‘Lauhala’ mats. Guests at Luau’s receive Leis as they arrive on the scene. The Lei is a necklace or headdress of woven flowers or shells and is given as a display of affection. Also when dressing up for the Luau women can place a flower behind their right or left ear. Placing a flower over the left ear indicates that one is taken or in a relationship and placing a flower over the right ear indicates that one is available.

Hawaii is a melting pot of Asian and Polynesian cultures so Luaus are often sprinkled with influences from other cultures. For example Rice has become a popular side dish to include at the luau party and many Hawaiians are fond of Spam and spend time looking for ways to create interesting recipes with it. Elvis and Don Ho both created albums with songs about Hawaii that are popular to play at Luaus. And the dangerous, yet thrilling, fire dance often seen at professional Luaus is really of Samoan origin.

Mrs. Party… Gail Leino is the internet’s leading authority on selecting the best possible party supplies, using proper etiquette and manners while also teaching organizational skills and fun facts. Luau Party Shop has luau party supplies to help complete your Hawaiian themed event.

One of the Hawaiian Islands, Kauai, is sometimes referred to as “Hawaii’s Island Of Discovery”. That’s because Kauai is Hawaii’s oldest island, yet it’s constantly changing to enlighten and satisfy all the many visitors who go there.

One can find shops and restaurants bustling with activity alongside the many vendors working the highways and by-ways to sell flowers, a variety of fish and lots of fruit.

On Kauai’s west side on the beach on Kekaha, an old sugar camp house sat for years awaiting restoration. Finally, this facility along with an historic 5-bedroom house, has now joined Waimea Plantation Cottages as a restored plantation- style home bringing the cottage count now to 50.

Heading east to Kalaheo, two houses have been added as rentals for vacationers. Although both sites are away from any beaches (and are more residential than resort-style), the accommodations are affordable, clean and comfortable. Plus, guests do not need to be concerned with minimum stays or cleaning fees.

Vacationers here can even enjoy more perks like a hot tub, free tennis court usage, beach gear, boogie boards and snorkel equipment.

On the south side, reconstruction of a hotel (Waiohai Hotel), damaged by Hurricane Iniki in 1992, has been completed. This property was converted into timeshares—200 2-bedroom accommodations in nine buildings.

Catering to the upscale market, 22 units in the Poipu Kai Resort were added measuring 1,700 to 2,000 square feet. These condos have air conditioning, featuring walk-in showers made of glass block, complete with designer furnishings. Oh and for kitchen lovers, there’s Corian countertops throughout. Visitors here will agree this place is a pleasant, nicely-manicured resort, complete with pool and ocean-front units.

Also in the Poipu area, roughly a block from the ocean, is a quiet setting with restored former residential rentals featuring hardwood floors, hot tubs and walk-in showers. Here one finds a feeling of seclusion in this lovely place called Hideaway Love Villas.

For those visitors wishing to be pampered while staying at Poipu, there is another setting of three 2,600 square-foot units: two at ocean front; one with an ocean view. Here, at Kauai Cottages at Poipu Beach, a guest gets elegant furnishings, high-speed Internet access—complimented with tennis and honeymoon packages. The honeymoon packages come with a cold bottle of champagne upon arrival PLUS a chef will even prepare a delicious meal! So, be assured to find a lot of romance when staying in these private, beautifully- landscaped cottages.

As the continual proliferation of vacation rentals marches on, the south side of Kauai will doubtless feel some growing pains. More commercial development will need to keep pace—town squares, shops, restaurants and grocery stores will blanket the landscape.

Approaching Lihue, one finds what used to be one of the “off limits” in Kauai—until a 3,000 acre ranch owner opened his property to small tours. This was a former sugar plantation now managed by Kipu Ranch Adventures. Here, a visitor can enjoy the land as it sprawls from hilly terrain to coastal beaches. These beaches offer common sites of turtles, seals and yes, even dolphins!

Should visitors have a passion for Polynesian dancing, attending a three-day Kauai Polynesian Festival event is an absolute treat. Located at the Kukui Grove Park and Pavilion on Highway 50, guests are entertained by local Hula troupes, dancers from Somoa, Tahiti and as far away as New Zealand. The festival usually held in late May, boasts international craft displays, intereresting booths and an abundance of local cuisine.

While in Lihue, check out the fascinating yet unusual museum known as the Kauai Veterans’ Center Military Museum. Here, the die-hard war-buff can view displays of weaponry donated by local soldiers of Hawaii who fought in World War II and in Vietnam. There are even archives from combat units dating back to the Spanish American War.

Making your way on Kauai’s east side north of Lihue, visitors discover the little community of Kapaa. Here you find the Kauai Children’s Discovery Museum specializing in the developmental needs of kids under five years in age. Parents are welcome to gather information about community resources and services as well as on child development. One will be very impressed with the numerous special toys and playground equipment—all designed for the stimulation of kids’ brains and muscles.

As you leave Kapaa and continue northward on Highway 56, prepare yourself for all the congestion due to a construction boom. Surprisingly, an oasis appears revealing the Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens and Sculpture Park. Guests are permitted to tour the grounds where gardens feature exotic vegetation, hardwood trees, even dozens of statues made of bronze. Two of the most recently added statues depict a young Hawaiian with his father planting a mahogany tree; and the other was installed adjacent to the ponds along the garden’s birdwalk, called “Still Life” which is a likeness of a blue heron.

For the hiking enthusiasts, Princeville Ranch has a fantastic hiking tour lasting five hours over ranch land hosting some awe-inspiring viewpoints. This tour even features an exciting area where you must swing on a chain to advance off a small cliff. At the end of the hiking is Kalihwai Falls, providing the visitor/hiker with a refreshing dip and a fulfilling lunch.

There is a place on Kauai debated to be the most remote place on the island: Hanalei Colony Resort. There are no phones and no televisions. Renovations are underway upgrading these condos from one bath to one and a half baths. Workers minimize their building efforts, however, to focus on the most important detail: Don’t Disrupt the Quiet-Seeking Patrons! As remote and quiet as this resort remains, wedding, honeymoon and small meeting groups are always welcome.

Yes, Kauai is continually offering its visitors something pristine and glorious. It’s an adventure into Paradise not soon forgotten.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Hawaii

Honolulu is one of the most popular destinations in Hawaii and is a major city, being located at the far end of Waikiki. The main tourist hot spots in Honolulu are the downtown district - the Pacific Region’s main financial and business center, and Waikiki, the heart of Honolulu. Waikiki is known for its narrow sandy beach area, which has become one of the world’s most notable beaches, lined with many excellent shops, restaurants and accommodation.

Located on Hawaii’s Oahu Island, Honolulu is full of things to see and attractions to
visit. Dominated by the imposing Diamond Head volcano, which is now extinct,
Honolulu is known for its tropical landscape, palm trees, harbor, nearby islands and
the Mamala Bay, where a range of water sports are on offer.

Honolulu Travel:

With a large population and many spreading urban areas, traffic in Honolulu can
become understandably busy, particularly due to the cluster of one-way streets.
There are a number of car parks and on-street parking areas in central Honolulu,
and car rental is widely available. Renting a car in Honolulu is one of the most
convenient ways to explore the island of Oahu, although other popular methods of
transport include buses, coaches, taxis and even bicycles.

Honolulu International Airport (HNL) stands around 4 miles / 6 km from the center
of the city and is an important transportation hub. Many passengers arrive each day
at Honolulu Airport from mainland America, London and other nearby Hawaiian
Islands. With three terminals and a range of facilities, the airport is just a short trip
from central Honolulu, with a number of hotels nearby.

Places to Stay in Honolulu:

Honolulu thrives on tourism and there is a huge range of accommodation
throughout the city. Hotel rates in Honolulu are often high, although a selection of
budget options do exist, namely bed and breakfast accommodation, which is
usually well presented. The American Youth Hostel in Honolulu offers extremely
inexpensive rooms and is always popular with budget travelers visiting the city.

At the opposite end of the scale, Honolulu is home to a wealth of luxury hotels,
often with simply breathtaking coastal views and convenient locations. Some of
Honolulu’s premier hotels are amongst the best in the world.

Honolulu Tourism:

Tourist attractions in Honolulu are excellent and apart from the endless stretches of
golden sands, there are plenty of things to see, making Honolulu the ideal holiday
destination. Facilities include landmarks and monuments, historical museums,
contemporary art galleries, must-see sights, and a large variety of recreational
activities.

Top attractions include Aloha Tower Marketplace, Honolulu Zoo, Iolani Palace, the
Aloha Tower, Diamond Head Lighthouse, the State Capitol Building, Hawaii Maritime
Center, the Hawaii State Art Museum, and the Battleship Missouri Memorial at Pearl
Harbor.

Honolulu Restaurants:

There is an incredible diversity of restaurants and places to eat throughout
Honolulu, reflecting the ethnic communities and locals. Look for the restaurants
where locals in Honolulu choose to eat, such as those around the University of
Hawaii at Manoa, where you will find an array of affordable cafes and food outlets.
Also, the food court in the Ala Moana Center is particularly well stocked.

Honolulu Weather:

The weather in Honolulu varies only slightly all through the year, with constant
temperatures reaching the 70s and 80s. Honolulu features two main seasons -
April to November, which is slightly warmer than the period December to March.
The surrounding ocean remains warm throughout the year and is one of Honolulu’s
main attractions.

Nia Rees writes for World Guides
providers of travel and tourist information for major cities throughout the world.

For further tourist information about Honolulu, Hawaii, USA visit World Guides to
Honolulu at Travel Guide to
Honolulu, Hawaii, USA

For further information about the airport, visit Airports Guides to Honolulu at
Honolulu International Airport (HNL)